As demonstrations against Chinese rule swept across the Tibetan plateau in March 2008, the monks of Gartse lamasery led hundreds of lay people from the surrounding town in a protest march.
But unlike other Tibetan-majority areas, where Chinese troops opened fire on unarmed demonstrators, the Gartse monks were allowed to protest in peace. Now, as fresh protests and a grisly wave of self-immolations ripple through Chinese-ruled Tibetan areas, the situation around Gartse and most of what is today Qinghai province remains relatively calm.
Local Chinese, Tibetan leaders, experts and exile groups give credit to the relatively lenient governance style in much of Qinghai, which contrasts starkly with far more punitive policies elsewhere.
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